Bead Dictionary Letter E
Introduction
In the late 1990s, Penny Diamanti, Joyce Diamanti and Robert K. Liu started working on a Bead Dictionary. Around 2009, after much work by the Diamantis, the Bead Dictionary was posted on the Beadazzled website. Through the years, additions were made by Beadazzled. In the summer of 2018, when the Washington DC Beadazzled store and its website closed, the Bead Dictionary was offered to Ornament. This is a unique resource, especially rich for information on beads of ethnographic and ancient origins. As Ornament has only a staff of two now, we are slowly reposting it on our website, updating or expanding some of the entries and are adding search features, links and references as time permits. The Bead Dictionary covers primarily beads and other perforated ornaments, but also tools and materials used by those who make jewelry utilizing beads. Photographs from the Ornament archives are being added, as well as new images taken expressly for the Bead Dictionary and others are being brought up to current standards, as many of these images are almost 30 years old. Original photography was by Robert K. Liu, while Cas Webber did additional photos for Beadazzled, noted in the captions as RKL or CW, after first captions.
This Dictionary of Beads is a labor of love and a work in progress. We welcome your comments and suggestions through the Contact link. To navigate, select from the visual index above to jump to the letter you want in the Dictionary, but give the page a little time to load first. To get back to the top and select another letter use the arrow button. We are continuously adding to the Dictionary, so check back often.
To search for keywords in Dictionary headings, use your browser's search function; for example in Internet Explorer use Control+F and in Apple Command+F, then type in your keyword. We hope you enjoy this (not-so-tiny) treasure, and learn more about the vast world of Beads.
Ear Spools—Ancient Chinese Erhtang
Ancient Chinese glass erhtang, possibly finished by lapidary-means. Courtesy of Dirk Ross. RKL
While glass came late to the Chinese, in the late Zhou Dynasty, they worked it with great skill at that time, especially during the Warring States Period, and they continued to do so into the Han and Tang dynasties. In the late Warring States Period, glass ear spools, or erhtang, came into use, although similar ear ornaments in stone and jet possibly preceded them. The Zhou erhtang were cylindrical or octagonal, and were flared at the bottom. Formed in molds, they were made of plain or decorated glass, and usually had large perforations. By the succeeding Han Dynasty, these ear spools had become popular ear ornaments. The mode of wearing them, however, is not certain. Although the Han erhtang were perforated, their perforations were smaller.
The erhtang shown in the accompanying images are displayed on metal rods; they range from 1.1 to 2.2 cm in length. A single example, resembling a capstan, or spool, bead, is shown on the left. All are in some shade of turquoise or blue glass, colored with cobalt and are beautifully made ornaments, perhaps finished by lapidary means. Erhtang have been found in East and Southeast Asia, where they probably spread as a result of trade. There were other types of glass ear ornaments in Asia, but none with the grace of these flared beadlike Erhtang. See Ornament 19/1, 1991 and 38/4, 2015.
See Also: Spool Beads Erhtang
An assortment of ancient Chinese glass erhtang, also known as capstan beads or ear spools, all Han Dynasty. Courtesy of Dirk Ross. RKL
Ebony Beads
Ebony beads inlaid with silver. RKL
See Also: Wood Beads
Egyptian Amulets
No other ancient culture utilized amulets to the extent that the Egyptians did. Because of its funerary practices that required the use of numerous amulets and their well established stone, faience and glass industries, most amulets were made in these materials. Since faience and glass could both be molded, these labor-saving practices encouraged the making of more amulets in these two media. Usually, open-face, one-part molds were used, sometimes combined with hand-detailing. Most amulets were small, being 1.1 to 2.9 cm long, as in the illustration of the array of figural and symbolic amulets. Small size did not mean lack of refinement, as one can see in the Thoth or ibis-headed amulets, which also illustrate the phenomenon of degradation. Because of the religious importance of scarab beetles, such amulets abounded, made in many materials: stone, glass, faience and clay.
See Also: Faience Udjat
Single- and multiple scarab amulets, of clay, faience, fired steatite and hardstones. Scarabs are among the most important amulets. RKL
An array of faience amulets, all molded, with some hand detailing; shown is an Apis bull, two Udjat or Eye of Horus, bicolor lotus bud, cornflower pendant, Taurt and a papyrus scepter. RKL
Two Thoth or ibis-headed amulets—one finely made, the other degraded, often seen in Egyptian amulets. RKL
Egyptian Glass—Date Beads
These ancient glass beads are popularly called date beads, because of their resemblance to the fruit of date palms. They and the striped beads of similar form and construction are probably contemporaneous; occurring as early as the Ptolemaic or the following Roman Period. They are very common in Egypt but not elsewhere.
Date beads were made from a pre-fused sheet of bi-colored glass, which was heated and wound around the mandrel. They are found in various color combinations: a cap of yellow on a green body; yellow with striped yellow and green; and yellow with yellow/brown. Some may have yet another color, a reddish brown. While quite small, date beads are very distinctive. The largest are only 1.7 cm long. Bicone beads with similar color combinations may also date from this time.
See Also: Egyptian Glass
Green/yellow, green striped/yellow capped date glass beads and yellow bicones of Ptolemaic/Roman Period. RKL
Ancient Egyptian glass date beads and striped bicones of the Ptolemaic or Roman Period. RKL
Elastic Cord
Elastic beading cord used for making stretchy bracelets and anklets. CW
Elastic cord refers to a variety of stretchy cords that can be used for beading. The main benefit of using elastic cord is that you don’t need a clasp. The biggest drawback is that it is not as strong as other stringing materials. Using a needle can make it easier to pull elastic cord through beads. Glue can be applied to secure knots made with this cord, but you must be careful to choose a type of glue that is safe for elastic, or else the glue may eat away the cord. Making choker-style necklaces with elastic cord is not recommended because stretching it to pull the choker over your head puts too much stress on the knot. Beads strung on elastic cord must have smooth holes to avoid cutting through the cord as the beads rub against it.
Stretch Magic™ is a clear, single-strand elastic cord. It comes in several different colors, as well as black, and is available in diameters of .5mm as well as 1mm. It is one of the strongest thin elastic cords on the market.
Elastic line is a milky white cord made from several fine strands of elastic that have been bonded together. This type of cord can be stretched out further than Stretch Magic, but it is not as strong.
Fiber-covered elastic cord is much thicker and stronger than plain elastic cord. Because of its thickness, however, it is suitable for large-holed beads only.
Emerald
Vintage emerald beads of ethnographic origin with pearls. RKL
Gem quality emeralds are rare, expensive and most often set in fine jewelry. All true emeralds have inclusions, which can cause them to easily shatter. In the case of emeralds, if it looks too perfect, it’s most likely a heat-treated beryl imitation. The earliest emerald mines opened in Egypt as early as 1300 B.C. Some of the finest emeralds found today come from Colombia. Brazil, Russia and many African countries also produce some emeralds.
Ancient Romans viewed emeralds as a symbol of fertility and of the goddess Venus.
Emeralds can bring love into your life and enhance love in your current relationships. They also keep partnerships in balance. If an emerald changes color, it can signal unfaithfulness. Emerald is the traditional birthstone for May.
Enamel Beads
Chinese enameled beads and cloisonné beads. Robert K. Liu
See Also: Cloisonné and Enamel Beads—Antique Chinese
Collection of contemporary Chinese enameled beads. Robert K. Liu
North African enameled beads. Robert K. Liu
Engraved Beads
Ancient engraved signet beads. Robert K. Liu
Engraved chalcedony/carnelian beads shown are actually ancient signet seals.
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Erhtang
Assortment of ancient Chinese erhtang, to show sizes, shapes and glass colors. Courtesy of Dirk Ross. Robert K. Liu
Ancient Chinese glass ear spools.
See Also: Ear Spools—Ancient Chinese Erhtang Spool Beads
Etched Agate Beads
Etched carnelian, dZi and related beads. Robert K. Liu
Etched agate beads are very similar to how dZi beads were made, although in the image to left some of the eyes are natural, not etched.
See Also: dZi Beads Etched Carnelian Beads
Dark beads with etched designs. Robert K. Liu
Etched carnelians close up. Includes cone shaped beads. Robert K. Liu
Etched Carnelian Beads
Contemporary etched carnelian beads imitating dZi beads. Cas Webber
Etched carnelian beads are made by painting a design of an alkaline solution on the surface of the bead, then heating to reveal the white decoration. Black beads with white lines were made by blackening the stone by carbonizing it, then painting on a design with alkaline solution, then heating.
See Also: Etched Agate Beads Warring States Beads—Ancient Chinese
Closeup of etched carnelians close up. Includes cone shaped beads. Robert K. Liu
Etched carnelian strands, including some dark beads with etched white designs. Robert K. Liu
Ethiopian Cross
Ethiopian Coptic cross pendant. Cas Webber
Some Ethiopians wear crosses that are based on Coptic Christian symbolism because many of them have practiced Christianity since the 4th century. The crosses are typically worn around the neck on a blue cotton cord called a “mateb” which is a baptism gift. Because crosses are a symbol of faith, they are one of the most prized personal possessions in the Ethiopian highlands.
Ethiopian crosses feature a wide variety of styles ranging from simple crucifix shapes to more ornate designs with flared arms, trefoils (three overlapping rings), decorative projections and patterns of interwoven lines symbolizing eternity. In the 19th century, hinges and crowns became more common in the designs because of the influence of European medals. Ethiopian crosses also come in a larger version that is mounted on a staff and used in various religious processions.
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Ethiopian Pendants
Ethiopian brass and white metal rings. Robert K. Liu
Besides the well-known Ethiopian Crosses, a number of other religious groups in Ethiopia use rings of silver or brass, worn singly on the neck.
See Also: Ethiopian Cross
Two small traditional Ethiopian silver amulets. Robert K. Liu
Eye Agate
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See: Agate Orbicular Agate
Eye Beads
Natural “eye” in a carnelian bead. Robert K. Liu
Natural stone eyebeads of agate/carnelian are made by lapidary means, to grind the perforated stone to reveal round eyes surrounded by white stone. These may be mistaken for etched agates.
See Also: Eye Beads—Ancient Egyptian Warring States Beads—Ancient Chinese Warring States Beads—Glass Imitations
Glass Eye beads from the 4th-6th Century B.C, of European origins. Robert K. Liu
Contemporary Eye beads from the Middle East and Turkey. Robert K. Liu
Eye Beads—Ancient Egyptian
Ancient Egyptian tabular stratified eye beads (0.4 to 0.8 cm in diameter). Robert K. Liu
Simple and stratified eyes have been used to decorate numerous types of glass beads in countless places around the world. But small eye beads of tabular shape are rare and may have been confined to Egypt or the Near East. Many are perforated through the edge of the circumference; in addition, some have loops as well. Diminutive in size, the most common color combinations are a red/blue eye on a white matrix or a red/white eye on a blue matrix, as seen in the examples shown. These date most likely to the 19th Dynasty, circa 1300 to 1200 BC. Some of these glass color combinations remained popular until Roman Egypt, and can be seen in Roman mosaic face beads of the early type.
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See Also: Egyptian Glass Eye Beads
Eye Beads—Ancient Middle East
Various ancient Middle Eastern glass eye beads. Robert K. Liu
Simple and stratified glass eyebeads, some possibly Islamic, others more ancient and from Middle East.
Eye Beads—Chinese
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See: Warring States Beads—Ancient Chinese Warring States Beads—Glass Imitations
Eye Beads—Composite Chinese
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See: Warring States Beads—Ancient Chinese
Eye Beads—Stratified
Ancient stratified glass eye beads, with paired- or single eyes, some showing devitrification.
Robert K. Liu
Most eye beads are difficult to date and identify but there are some distinctive beads with stratified, paired eyes that can be usually placed to between the 6th and 3rd centuries BC. They were found in the Mediterranean area and central Europe, and are made of a yellow-orange matrix, with usually four pairs of eyes, of violet blue on a white ground, and perforations as large as 1.0 cm diameter. Size range of these beads is 1.9 to 2.7 cm diameters. In some beads of the same color combinations, the eyes are stratified but not paired; they may have the same origins. Some have been found as late as the 10th century A.D. and during the 6th-7th centuries A.D., fragments of such beads were used as amulets in Europe. Currently, there are glass artists who make replicas of such stratified eye beads in both glass and polymer, with good fidelity.
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See Also: Eye Beads Eye Beads—Ancient Egyptian
Eye Beads—Triangular
Ancient triangular glass eye beads, Near East and Aegean, in much devitrified condition. Robert K. Liu
Triangular eye beads, among the earliest examples of glass ornaments, dating from between the 9th and 7th centuries B.C., are found in the Near East and the Aegean. Possibly due to deterioration of the glass, they usually appear to be of dark colors and often the trailed glass that formed the three eyes has fallen off, leaving merely grooves. Such glass eye beads may vary somewhat in shape or profile, but on the whole, triangular beads are rare in any material. The example shown, 2.3 cm high, is possibly from the Aegean, where they were fairly numerous.
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See Also: Eye Beads
Eyepins
Standard two inch eyepins for making earrings and pendants. Cas Webber
Short sections of wire for making earrings or pendants, characterized by a loop (eye) on one end that can be used to attach dangles or another eyepin or headpin.
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